1999 Kona Jake the Snake

Archived: 1999 Kona Jake the Snake · Cyclocross · Published sizes: 49cm, 52cm, 55cm, 58cm

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.
• Find the size marking on the bicycle and confirm the fit before judging the condition or price.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded · Fork: Kona Project Two · Chromoly, unicrown crown

• Look for dents or shape changes and inspect the edges of welds around the head tube, bottom bracket, seat cluster and suspension mounts for hairline cracks.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.
• Inspect the fork crown, blades, dropouts and visible steerer area. Check that it is straight, securely installed and free of cracks or impact damage.

Archived: Group: Shimano 105 · Shifters: Shimano 105 STI Dual Control · Front derailleur: Shimano 105 · Rear derailleur: Shimano 105 GS · Crankset: Shimano 105, 34/48 teeth · Bottom bracket: Shimano BB-UN52 · Rear cogs: 9-speed, 12 - 25 teeth · Chain: Shimano CN-HG72, 1/2 x 3/32"

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Shimano Deore LX V-Brake brakes, Shimano 105 STI levers

• Inspect pads, cables and housings, then examine both rim braking surfaces for concavity, cracking or heavy wear. Confirm each caliper returns and centers correctly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: 700c wheels · Rims: Mavic CXP 23 · Hubs: Front: Ritchey Pro S, Rear: Shimano 105 · Front tire: 700 x 38c Michelin Cyclo-Cross MUD

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: 1" threadless Tioga TG · Handlebar: TTT Forma · Stem: Tahoma Sonne IV · Seatpost: Kona O-Beam, 27.0mm diameter · Saddle: Selle Italia Nitrox · Pedals: Ritchey Logic Sport

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.