2010 Cannondale RZ One Twenty 3

Archived: 2010 Cannondale RZ One Twenty 3 · Mountain bike, front & rear suspension · Published sizes: S, M, L, X

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.
• Find the size marking on the bicycle and confirm the fit before judging the condition or price.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded · Fork: Cannondale Lefty Ultra w/DLR, 120mm travel · Dual

• Inspect the complete frame for cracks, dents, distortion, heavy abrasion, suspicious paint differences or evidence of a previous repair.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.

Archived: Fork: Cannondale Lefty Ultra w/DLR, 120mm travel · Rear shock: RockShox Monarch 3.3, 120mm travel

• Inspect the fork stanchions for scratches or coating wear, look for oil or dirt rings at the seals, and cycle the fork through its travel while checking for binding or bushing play.
• Inspect the shock shaft and seals, cycle the rear suspension through its travel and check for oil, air loss, binding or unusual top-out and bottom-out noises.
• Hold the rear brake and load the suspension from several directions. Check pivots, bearings and mounting hardware for knock, looseness or side play.
• Ask for dated fork, shock and pivot-service records. A clean exterior does not establish the condition of internal seals, oil, bushings or bearings.

Archived: Group: Mountain Mix · Shifters: Shimano Deore · Front derailleur: Shimano Deore · Rear derailleur: Shimano XT · Crankset: Shimano FC-M542, 44/32/22 teeth · Bottom bracket: Shimano FC-M542 · Cassette: SRAM PG-950 · Rear cogs: 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth · Chain: KMC X9 9-speed

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Hayes Stroker Ryde w/160mm rotor brakes, Hayes Stroker Ryde levers

• Inspect pads and braking surfaces, check the complete cable or hose path, and confirm both controls feel consistent and return cleanly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: 26" wheels · Rims: Sun EQ25, 32-hole · Hubs: Front: Cannondale Lefty SL, Rear: Shimano FH-M525 disc · Front tire: 26 x 2.25" Schwalbe Racing Ralph EVO

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: Cannondale HeadShok Si · Handlebar: Cannondale C3 · Stem: Cannondale HeadShok · Seatpost: Cannondale C3, 31.6mm diameter · Saddle: Prologo Vertigo Max · Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.