2006 Specialized FSR XC

Archived: 2006 Specialized FSR XC · Mountain bike, front & rear suspension · Published sizes: Small, medium, large, xlarge

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.
• Find the size marking on the bicycle and confirm the fit before judging the condition or price.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded · Fork: Rock Shox J3, 100mm · Steel/aluminum, single crown

• Look for dents or shape changes and inspect the edges of welds around the head tube, bottom bracket, seat cluster and suspension mounts for hairline cracks.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.
• Inspect the fork crown, blades, dropouts and visible steerer area. Check that it is straight, securely installed and free of cracks or impact damage.

Archived: Fork: Rock Shox J3, 100mm · Rear shock: X-Fusion RLA Air, 6.5"x1.5", 100mm travel

• Inspect the shock shaft and seals, cycle the rear suspension through its travel and check for oil, air loss, binding or unusual top-out and bottom-out noises.
• Hold the rear brake and load the suspension from several directions. Check pivots, bearings and mounting hardware for knock, looseness or side play.
• Ask for dated shock and pivot-service records. A clean exterior does not establish the condition of internal seals, oil, bushings or bearings.

Archived: Group: Shimano Deore · Shifters: Shimano Deore · Front derailleur: Shimano Deore, 34.9mm clamp, top swing, botttom pull · Rear derailleur: Shimano M-570 Deore LX, long cage, standard spring · Crankset: Custom Shimano M-460 Hollowtech, square taper, 22/32/44 teeth · Bottom bracket: Shimano UN-25, 113mm spindle · Rear cogs: 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth · Chain: SRAM PC-951 with Power Link

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Alloy linear pull with stainless hardware brakes, Shimano M420 levers

• Inspect pads, cables and housings, then examine both rim braking surfaces for concavity, cracking or heavy wear. Confirm each caliper returns and centers correctly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: 26" wheels · Rims: Sun CR-18, 32-hole · Hubs: Front: Specialized Stout disc, loose ball bearing, high/low flange, Rear: Shimano M-475L disc, 8/9-speed, alloy QR · Front tire: 26 x 2.00" Specialized Adrenaline, aramid bead, dual compound, 60 TPI

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: 1 1/8" threadless, black steel cups, loose ball bearings with seals · Handlebar: Specialized XC Low Rise, butted alloy, 6 degree upsweep, 8 degree backsweep · Stem: Aluminum, 10 degree rise, TIG welded, black · Seatpost: Aluminum, 30.9mm diameter · Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry, steel rails, dual density base · Pedals: Alloy platform

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.