1996 Specialized Stumpjumper

Archived: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper · Mountain bike, non-suspension · Published sizes: 13.5", 15.5", 17", 18", 19", 20.5"

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.
• Find the size marking on the bicycle and confirm the fit before judging the condition or price.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded steel · Fork: Tange · Tange chromoly, butted, unicrown crown

• Check paint damage, vent holes and accessible internal surfaces for corrosion. Look for dents, bent tubes and cracking around welded or brazed joints.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.
• Inspect the fork crown, blades, dropouts and visible steerer area. Check that it is straight, securely installed and free of cracks or impact damage.

Archived: Group: Shimano Deore LX · Shifters: Grip Shift SRT-800 X-Ray · Front derailleur: Shimano Deore LX top-swing, bottom-pull/clamp-on 28.6 mm · Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore XT SGS · Crankset: Specialized Son of Strongarm, 22/32/42 teeth · Bottom bracket: Shimano BB-UN52, 110 mm spindle · Rear cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 28 teeth · Chain: Shimano CN-IG51, 1/2 x 3/32"

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Shimano STX M-System brakes, Dia-Compe PC-7N levers

• Inspect pads and braking surfaces, check the complete cable or hose path, and confirm both controls feel consistent and return cleanly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: 26" wheels · Rims: Mavic 221, 32-hole · Front tire: Front: 26 x 2.00" Specialized Team Control, kevlar, Rear: 26 x 2.10" Specialized Team Master, kevlar

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: 1 1/8" Tange-Seiki · Handlebar: YC A110 · Stem: Specialized A1, cold forged · Seatpost: Tahoma DP 510, 30.4 mm diameter · Saddle: Specialized Prolong Evolution · Pedals: Specialized Direct Drive Comp

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.