1998 Marin East Peak F.R.S.

Archived: 1998 Marin East Peak F.R.S. · Mountain bike, front & rear suspension · Published sizes: 13.5", 15.5", 17.5", 19", 20.5"

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.
• Find the size marking on the bicycle and confirm the fit before judging the condition or price.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded · Fork: RST 381RM · Aluminum/chromoly, triple-clamp crown

• Inspect the complete frame for cracks, dents, distortion, heavy abrasion, suspicious paint differences or evidence of a previous repair.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.
• Inspect the fork crown, blades, dropouts and visible steerer area. Check that it is straight, securely installed and free of cracks or impact damage.

Archived: Fork: RST 381RM · Rear shock: Shock Works, 4.0" travel

• Inspect the shock shaft and seals, cycle the rear suspension through its travel and check for oil, air loss, binding or unusual top-out and bottom-out noises.
• Hold the rear brake and load the suspension from several directions. Check pivots, bearings and mounting hardware for knock, looseness or side play.
• Ask for dated shock and pivot-service records. A clean exterior does not establish the condition of internal seals, oil, bushings or bearings.

Archived: Group: Mountain Mix · Shifters: Shimano STX-RC RapidFire SL · Front derailleur: Shimano STX top-swing, bottom-pull/clamp-on 35.0mm · Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore LX GS · Crankset: Shimano Deore LX, 22/32/42 teeth · Bottom bracket: Shimano BB-UN52, 110mm spindle · Rear cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 28 teeth · Chain: Shimano CN-IG51, 1/2 x 3/32"

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Avid 1D-20 brakes, Avid SD-1.9 L levers

• Inspect pads and braking surfaces, check the complete cable or hose path, and confirm both controls feel consistent and return cleanly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: 26" wheels · Rims: Mavic X138, 32-hole · Hubs: Shimano STX-RC · Front tire: 26 x 1.95" IRC Mythos XC kevlar

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Dia-Tech steel · Handlebar: Aluminum, 1" rise · Stem: Marin Lite aluminum · Seatpost: Marin Lite Comp, 30.0mm diameter · Saddle: Ritchey Vector · Pedals: Aluminum cage w/clips & straps

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.