2013 Kona Unit

Archived: Frame: Chromoly · Fork: Kona P2 29

• Check paint damage, vent holes and accessible internal surfaces for corrosion. Look for dents, bent tubes and cracking around welded or brazed joints.
• Inspect the fork crown, blades, dropouts and visible steerer area. Check that it is straight, securely installed and free of cracks or impact damage.

Archived: Fork: Kona P2 29

• Inspect the fork stanchions for scratches or coating wear, look for oil or dirt rings at the seals, and cycle the fork through its travel while checking for binding or bushing play.
• Ask for dated fork-service records. A clean exterior does not establish the condition of internal seals, oil or bushings.

Archived: Crankset: FSA CK-715PDHS 32t · Bottom bracket: FSA MegaExo · Cassette: Freewheel · Rear cogs: 1x1 Speeds · Chain: KMC Z610

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Avid BB7

• Inspect pads and braking surfaces, check the complete cable or hose path, and confirm both controls feel consistent and return cleanly.

Archived: Headset: TH ZST · Handlebar: Kona Energy · Stem: Kona XC/Road · Seatpost: Kona Offset · Saddle: WTB Volt Comp · Pedals: Kona JackShit

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.