1999 Ionic Johnny Rotten-Pimpy One

Archived: 1999 Ionic Johnny Rotten-Pimpy One · Mountain bike, front suspension

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded · Fork: Answer Manitou SX Ti, 3.15" travel · Aluminum/magnesium, triple-clamp crown

• Check paint damage, vent holes and accessible internal surfaces for corrosion. Look for dents, bent tubes and cracking around welded or brazed joints.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.

Archived: Fork: Answer Manitou SX Ti, 3.15" travel

• Inspect the fork stanchions for scratches or coating wear, look for oil or dirt rings at the seals, and cycle the fork through its travel while checking for binding or bushing play.
• Ask for dated fork-service records. A clean exterior does not establish the condition of internal seals, oil or bushings.

Archived: Group: Single Speed Mountain Bike Mix · Crankset: Ionic Billy XC · Bottom bracket: Shimano BB-UN91 · Rear cogs: 1-speed · Chain: Shimano CN-IG90, 1/2 x 3/32"

• Check chain tension and chainline, rotate the drivetrain through a full revolution and confirm the rear axle or tensioning hardware cannot slip.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Shimano XTR V-Brake brakes, SRAM ESP 9.0 levers

• Inspect pads, cables and housings, then examine both rim braking surfaces for concavity, cracking or heavy wear. Confirm each caliper returns and centers correctly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: 26" wheels · Rims: Sun Rims 0 XC Lite, 32-hole · Hubs: Front: Ringle Son of Bubba, Rear: Bullseye · Front tire: 26 x 1.95" IRC Mythos XC kevlar

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: 1 1/8" threadless Chris King NoThreadSet · Handlebar: Titec Hell Bent DH · Stem: Titec Big AL · Seatpost: Thomson Elite · Saddle: Selle Italia Nitrox · Pedals: Not included

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.