1998 Easy Racer Sho

Archived: 1998 Easy Racer Sho · Recumbent · Published sizes: Adjustable for rider height

• Confirm the frame markings and seller description match this archived model. Note every component that differs from the published build.
• Record the frame serial number. It should be legible, unaltered and consistent with the seller’s ownership history.
• Find the size marking on the bicycle and confirm the fit before judging the condition or price.

Archived: Frame: TIG-welded · Fork: Easy Rider · 4130 chromoly, unicrown crown

• Look for dents or shape changes and inspect the edges of welds around the head tube, bottom bracket, seat cluster and suspension mounts for hairline cracks.
• Stand behind and in front of the bicycle to look for obvious frame, fork or wheel misalignment. Ask directly about crashes, transport damage and repairs.
• Inspect the fork crown, blades, dropouts and visible steerer area. Check that it is straight, securely installed and free of cracks or impact damage.

Archived: Shifters: Grip Shift ESP 9.0SL · Front derailleur: Grip Shift ESP 9.0SL, bottom-pull/clamp-on 28.6mm · Rear derailleur: Grip Shift ESP 9.0SL · Crankset: Shimano 600 Ultegra, 30/42/52 teeth · Bottom bracket: Shimano BB-6500, 115mm spindle · Rear cogs: 8-speed, 11 - 34 teeth · Chain: Sachs PC-41, 1/2 x 3/32"

• Shift through every available gear under light load. Hesitation, skipping or inconsistent indexing can reflect wear, damage, poor adjustment or mismatched replacement parts.
• Measure chain wear with a compatible gauge and inspect chainring, cassette or freewheel teeth. A new chain does not rule out wear in the remaining drivetrain.
• Turn the cranks slowly, feel for rough bearings and check for side-to-side play. Inspect crank arms, chainring bolts and pedal threads for looseness or damage.

Archived: Brakes: Shimano 105SC Dual Pivot brakes, Grip Shift ESP 9.0 levers

• Inspect pads and braking surfaces, check the complete cable or hose path, and confirm both controls feel consistent and return cleanly.
• Before riding, test every installed brake separately at walking speed. Each should stop firmly and release cleanly without its control reaching the end of its usable travel.

Archived: Wheel size: Front: 20", Rear: 700c wheels · Rims: Front: HED J-2, Rear: Rolf, 24-hole/16-hole · Hubs: Front: Phil Wood, Rear: Rolf · Front tire: Front: 20 x 1 1/8" IRC Roadlite EX, Rear: 700 x 28c Ritchey Tom Slick

• Spin both wheels and watch for side-to-side and vertical movement. Check spoke tension, rim condition and hub play.
• Inspect both tire casings for cuts, cracking, plugs, bulges or exposed threads and confirm the installed sizes are safe for the rims and available frame and fork clearance.
• Remove and reinstall or closely inspect both wheel-retention systems. Axles or quick releases should tighten correctly with undamaged threads, hardware and dropouts.

Archived: Headset: 1" Chris King · Handlebar: Easy Rider Aluminum · Stem: SR · Saddle: Rans mesh · Pedals: Not included

• Apply the front brake and rock the bike to check for headset play or notchiness. Inspect the stem, handlebar and clamp zones, then confirm every fastener and control is secure.
• Check that the seatpost moves for adjustment and that the saddle, post and clamp hold securely without cracks, severe corrosion or damaged hardware.

• Before riding, confirm both wheels are secure, tires are safe, both brakes function, and the headset, handlebar, stem, cranks and pedals have no looseness.
• Begin at low speed. Test steering, braking and shifting progressively, then load the drivetrain and suspension only after the basic safety checks pass.
• Listen and feel for repeated knocks, grinding, skipping, brake pulsation or movement at joints. Stop the test if the bicycle cannot be controlled safely.